Chaos Altar (Jungle trees) 28 mm

So what to do with the ball at the centre of the aquatic moss ball or indeed the spikes from the same ball?

Sometimes you just see potential in a piece of scrap add two stones, place the spikes correctly then thread your pentagon in place.

The prayer flags are just strips of paper printed with gobbledygook, reduced in size and then cut out, ink washed and then cut at the bottom to look frayed.

There were some interesting cracks in the stones, a little red paint in them and we are oozing blood.

Jungle terrain

Some years ago I decided to create some scenery for 40k, we are talking 3rd-4th edition.
At the time the rules on LOS were more liberally understood the area of terrain was considered to be the jungle edge and you could only see 2" in, anything beyond that or behind the scenery base was out of LOS. Later versions of 40k played if you could see it you could shoot it. Scenery therefore had to be more substantial if you wanted it to block LOS.

After a hiatus in gaming of two years I came back to my scenery and found it has been mouse chewed and soiled. (it had been stored in an outdoor shed) apparently there was no room in the house.

The original layout had been three pieces of terrain that worked individually or could be grouped to make one large piece. I'd done this by cutting the bases out of a single piece of 6mm mdf using a jigsaw.

No the picture isn't washed out, but the flock had come off  and it looked tired. In addition I had learnt new skills. So it was time for a full refurbishment.

When I first created them the supply of scenery items was from a florist supplier, this warehouse had occasional sales and I accessed my materials there.

I've since discovered plastic aquarium plants, although one of their biggest faults is a lack of height, However I worked out a way to get height, I also used plastic xmas tree branches.

Using a painting brush I removed the dust and debris, cleaned it up best I could. I then applied PVA where I wanted rough stone areas and then sprayed black undercoat over the entire model to sterilize it. Dry brushed the stones with two shades of grey in two stages, then applied PVA and flocked those 'grass' areas I wanted.

The aquatic plants usually come attached to a mat, a ball or individually based on 'stones'. I avoid the individual pieces as they are more expensive. If you look closely you can see the plastic is assembled using small spikes onto which the individual elements are pushed, I gently pull these apart with the intent to reassemble the elements onto a kebab stick or dowel.

First I drill a hole into the base where I want the 'tree/bush' cut a length of kebab stick and glue it in the hole if you get the drill size right it's a tight fit, a quick wash of brown for the dowel and then I push on the plant material, adding further pieces separating them as I see fit to produce my tree.










By using different plants you can produce quite a variety.

In some instance the dowel mab no more than 10mm high in others 60 mm.

Sometimes the elements break off or like the xmas tree elements have no hole to thread so I drill holes to size and glue in with PVA or 'No Nails'.

The stone slabs in the picture are simple squares cut from a cereal box.




If you do enough you can create quite an interestingly terrained tabletop. Of course it's up to you to decide if LOS is stopped by terrain pieces or not, but with enough as shown below, you can use actual LOS

Alien Trees 28 mm

What sort of tree would you expect to find on Larisa third world of Betelgeuse 3?  I don't know either as I've not been yet, but I'd be surprised if they were like Earth's or indeed the ones below.
However I've never seen serious attempts at alien trees so thought I'd give it a go.

First off you need the inspiration and I saw it at 'Homebase' a dried floral bouquet.

The heads of the 'flowers' were obviously 'made' in some way and looked 'alien'.


I had previously made trees using wire and string and resorted to the same idea, odd numbers of wire were twisted together, spread out at the bottom so I could stand/glue the tree to a base.



Why odd numbers? Look around you, nature rarely has an even number of petals, leaves etc and even will always look wrong.

I started from the trunk and wrapped the string around the wire until I had the desired width and then tied it off at the end, I was going to cut it off neatly but saw the potential of dangling roots so left it long.



 I then wrapped string along the main trunk thickening at the bottom then coated it all with PVA to hold the string in place. I rather liked the effect and didn't want to hide it under caulk.



I'd earlier cut out some MDF, same shaped bases I'd left over from before. I used a router to make depressions for pools on the bases.

Placing any stone and grit with PVA I then undercoated the whole black.

Following the alien theme and being an Iron Warriors player I decided this might be a Chaos planet or one slowly converting.
Certainly it was scorched so I left the undercoat in place, dry brushing the rocks/grit grey, then added patches of PVA for scorched grass flock.  I dry brushed the trunks grey and then dry brushed the balls white to lighten the subsequent red and highlighted with orange. The end effect was darker than I liked but worked.

The pools were painted red then I poured PVA over and left it to dry, cheap water effect.
For some reason unknown now I wanted extra contrast so put on some snow flock.

For a 28 mm Cedar of Lebanon look here

Really useful boxes and commission-figurines

How do you pack your models away?                                                                                                   

My soloution

So many options out there, none really worked for me.
I want relative low cost, study, stackable, portable & flexible  use.
I have 6 mm Hail Caesar with some bases up to 80 x 50 mm deep.
6 mm Black Powder 60 x 30 mm deep  
10 mm Warmaster 3 bases of 40 x 20mm
Height varies depending standards, cavalry (Kontos), fantastic beasts or flyers.

As a club we started using 9 &4 litre really useful boxes, sturdy
easy to stack and carry.

4 litre 2 tray insert
9  litre 4 tray insets
Extra large 9 litre 5 trays
Not that we used this often.


We bought these with hobby trays that have 15 sections we can get 30 of  our 60 x 30 mm bases.

The models are quite snug and tend not to move about. Each 35 mm tray allows for 32 mm height.


You can cut up magnetic sheets 60 x 60 mm to fit the squares, not glued and metallic paper to the model, the paired bases can't flip.

However BKC2 10 mm needing 40 x 20 mm, not as snug and vehicles that used one spot only and our 20 mm RF models, vehicles don't fit and individual based models were falling over they're top heavy compared to 6 & 10 mm multi based models. We looked for alternates home made tray inserts.

A solution for me was the 11 litre and 21 litre boxes into which I placed foam trays. 2 in 11 litre, 4-5 in 21 litre, 6 in Extended 21 litre box.



This 21 litre box contains 4 trays as the dragon model is so high there is no space for a full 5th tray though I could use half a tray. Without that model there is space for 5 trays = 200 of 40 x 20 mm bases, sturdy stackable.



But as you know many GW models extend beyond the foam and banners and weapons can be bent or broken off.

Not just the Wyvern!






Finally a friend mentioned the problem to Walter Anstiss of commission-figurines and at last we had a solution. [See note below]

These trays are self assembly when ordering choose to have one or two central bars as shown above, the difference suits different basing systems.

For my 6 mm Hail Caesar I have one divider and get 2 x 20 mm trays and 2 x 30 m  and 1 x 40. Total possible is 140.

This has allowed me to get a Dacian, Sarmatian with Kontos and Roman armies plus extras in.






As for my Warmaster the Undead horde that filled a 21 ltr box (5 foam trays) now all fits in one 9 ltr box, easier to store, but just as heavy!










These models are 10 mm and because of the banners I chose to use 3 x40 mm and 1 x 20 mm at the top for archer and bone throwers. I also cut the bottom out of half the top 20 mm tray so I had a full 60mm clearance for the dragon and other models that needed 40+ mm.


I use blank bases to fill the gaps to stop the units sliding.





Although wood bases on wood trays has a lot of friction for the larger or loose models I use Stopp from IKEA (for lining kitchen draws its stops the models sliding about.

It's relatively thin so wont waste height, low cost too.


Hope the above helps.
Storage boxes and trays, the next phase.

___________________________________________________________________________________

NOTE:

Commission Figuerines web site is a link to their PDF catalogue with the following instructions.

Ordering

e-mail us at commission@btinternet.com

Let us know what you want from the catalogue

We’ll let you know how much the postage will be

You let us know if you wish to proceed

We send you a Paypal invoice (which includes an option to pay by card)

Orc v High Elves AAR 2014-10-24

More from the store

Due to a string of confusing events Ben and I played Warmaster at mine on Friday 24th.

For a change we decided to have a blind set up, simply put the 8' table was broken into 6 x 30cm sections and we wrote down the units which would arrive in that sector, with some adjustment to allow for the opposing army, within that sector.

I opened entirely on the right flank covering 4 sectors with cavalry at each flank, whilst Ben put the troops in the centre again with cavalry on each flank covering 4 of the 8 sectors.

This was a big plus to the game, as Ben said he deployed his army with thought rather than reaction it also meant you could end up facing an empty table half initiating some redeployment.

I won the roll for first move and took it deploying my flanks successfully and as usual my Crown of command moving my trolls, and my next command failing.

Magic was used to push Ben's bolt throwers off the table disorganising his harpies en route

Ben moved his flanks but his centre declined. In my second turn all units advanced and being unable to attack his cavalry on the right my boys charged into the archers they could see leaving us in this position.

After four hours of play we came to a conclusion, as seen below. The game had swung both ways but final victory was Ben's and well deserved too.








We played a number of rules correctly that we hadn't previously, always learning one of the joys of gaming, keep the brain alive.














In the first picture you will note that 3 of the 4 Orc brigades are not in a straight line but are angled against each other to mitigate against offering a tasty flank.

This was a result of reading the rules book, which states brigades MUST finish in contact with each other, but contact as shown in the rear of the book can be as little as a corner.

We also employed the 'reform' at the end of the combat phase, rolling off to see who reformed first. In the past this has been incorrectly done at the conclusion of each combat and only by the turn player.

Contribution comment from Ben and his army lst.



Thanks for uploading this - no one was as surprised with my win as myself!

I think it was only 6`, but yes, that quick doodle at the beginning really was interesting and helped me move away from the Warhammer style "I go you go" formation placement where the temptation is to just put everything in a long, thin line.

180 - 3 Spearmen
300 - 4 Archers
220 - 2 Silver Helms
300 - 3 Reavers
70 - 1 Giant Eagles
65 - 1 Elven Bolt Thrower
180 - 1 General
80 - 1 Hero
90 - 1 Wizard
----------------------------------------------------------------
1485 - 14/7

My army list

Yup it was 6 feet, corrected post

180 - 3 Orc Warriors
120 - 1 Black Orcs
90 - 3 Goblins
110 - 1 Trolls
450 - 4 Boar Riders
120 - 2 Wold Riders
95 - 1 General with
100 - Crown of command
160 - 2 Orc Hero
45 - Orc Shaman
30 - Goblin Shaman
10 - Sword of destruction
10 - Sword of Cleaving
--------------------------------------
1500 14/7

OrkvChaos 2k, AAR 2015-05-22

Another rescued post as you will see I was in narrative mode.

Voidspinner aka Stormwind wanted to play an objective game, 2k points were agreed on either side the AAR follows.

Mork, or rather Mork’s voice as he should be called was the current leader of the Mourn Hills Orcs as he look about him he was pleased with what he saw, other small tribes had joined his and the tribe was now getting big enough for a small Waagh!
Get rid of some of the deadwood, be a chance to see if them that talked big could act big too, he thought, certainly like to see what Snotgut, and his goblin Shaman Deadhead were like in battle, they said they inspired the boys, words wus easy almost as easy as bashing but not as easy as commanding.
As luck would have it [such is the way with writing] just at that moment a wolf rider arrived, hot and agitated he grabbed a beer and meat from a nearby table drinking and munching he strode to Mork.
“We’s go trouble Boss, dem chaos blokes is massing down on the plains, dunno if they’s after du three ‘pointy ear skyprickers’ [obelisks] or wot, but…..”
“Dunt worry get the leaders here we’ll go bash ‘em anyways, we cud do with a scrap, sort out the newbies.”
The rider grinned and ran off.
So it was that Mork’s “Waagh!” readied for battle

Initial deployment, although I won the roll for table edge and fancied the middle hill for the rock lobbers, as is often the way I couldn't be bothered to move table sides and stayed where I’d sat earlier. I did put the rock lobbers centre table, to cover the central obelisk, with hindsight they’d have been better on the hill to my right.

Ork turn 1

Moving the left flank forwards, I advanced the cavalry 20 cm so I’d be able to make a 2[sup]nd[/sup] command then failed the roll. The ork shaman moved the adjacent gobos into the woods.
The right flank led by newbie, Snotgut refused to move, his wizard was equally useless, but you don’t expect a lot from a command of 6.
Mork then command the giant to advance, in his irritation he forgot to use the Crown of Command, failed the roll, the giant woke threw a boulder at the adjacent rock lobber that moved away [left], the other rock lobber moved out of it’s way and the trolls moved back. All were untroubled by this.
Mork commanded the shamans forwards the ork Shaman who moved his gobbos earlier successfully cast  Gerroff at the Chaos Warriors in front and pushed them back 25 cm off table, the Chaos Marauders behind moved right behind the other Chaos Warriors in the brigade [not confused], deviously the next shaman targeted those Chaos Warriors with Gerroff pushing them back 30 cm off table, the Marauders behind moved back to the original position and rolled a ‘6’, confused. Both looked expectantly at the new shaman, who rolled a 1. Mork shook his head this new leader and his Shaman were rubbish!

Position after Ork Turn 1

Chaos turn 1

Chaos rolled for the two off table Chaos Warriors one returned ready to move, the other returned and would move next time so we placed a confused marker next to it.
First command, was to the Chaos hounds who trotted forwards 20 cm, a second command to move them within 31 cm of the mixed boar and wolf riders brigade was failed, a blunder, result move forwards full pace to enemy, they were now just in initiative range.
The Chaos warlock moved the returned Chaos Warriors forwards twice so they were back where they had started in front of the confused unit. The Cavalry Warriors and Marauders was also successfully commanded towards the central obelisk, they were nearest and had possession.
The General chose to let the other warlock and his command of infantry stand to, guarding the third obelisk and commanded his cavalry brigade of two Warriors and two marauders forwards on his right flank, successfully moving them within 31 cm of the sleeping boar and wolf riders.
True to form the warlocks then leapt forwards and both successfully cast ‘Anger of the Gods’.

Position after Chaos Turn 1

Ork Turn 2

Ignoring the initiative as I wanted to ensure all or nothing hit the Chaos hounds I command them forwards, the 2nd unit of wolf boys had a flank view and joined in, The next command on a 6 [-1 AotG -1 terrain] moved the gobbos out of the trees and into the swamp. I now needed a 4 to move them to the next swamp [-1 AotG -1 terrain -20 cm enemy -1 2nd command still within 20 cm of command]. Rolling the 4 the gobbos moved to within 15 cm of the Chaos cavalry and were closest to the swamp.
Turning to the right flank Snotgut failed and the cavalry carried on sleeping.
Left with the rest of the army to command the General using CofC pushed the giant forwards and then failed his next command roll. TBH I wasn't getting the movement I wanted.
The Shamans moved, 1 failed to cast Waaagh! on Boarboys in combat, the central one cast Gerroff at the Mounted Marauders and blew them against the swamp, not confused, the goblins fired at them too but the 1 hit was saved. Snotgut’s shaman on the right flank rolled another 1.
In the melee on the left flank the first round went to the Orks, the boar boys held whilst the wolf riders pursued, in the end, 1 stand of Chaos hounds was left between two stands of Wolf boys and the three of boar boys. Yes I should have thrown the boar boys in but I’d have lost a stand.
Repositioning the combatants I awaited the onslaught from the Chaos left flank on my right.

Position after Ork turn 2

Chaos turn 2

Harpies ‘Home backed’ to the command on their right flank. Chaos hounds initiative charged the wolf riders.
Chaos Warriors that had been inactive now moved up to re-join their brigade, [net movement zero] the Cavalry in the centre failed its command. The general command the Mounted knights and Marauders towards the boar and wolf riders, and charged them in on the 2nd command. The harpies failed their command to fly in behind the Boar boys.
The mages cast ‘AotG’ again and combat commenced.
The wolf riders made short work of the chaos hounds [The wolf riders constantly got more hits than the boar riders. On the other flank, after two rounds of melee the Marauders had lost two stands, the knights 1, and there was nothing left of orks.
As he was unable to throw the full weight of his knights at the goblin flank, Stormwind/Voidspinner prepared them for assault in turn three,

Position after Chaos turn 2

Ork Turn 3

The goblins in the centre initiative charged the mounted marauders.
The wolves on the right were commanded back to the obelisk, just in case the harpies flew there.
Ignoring Snotgut, the general using CoC command the brigade to reform and face the incoming cavalry. The on a 7 commands the trolls to the battle, having skirted the orc brigade and needing a 5 they were sent into combat against the marauders.
Pushing my luck the giant was moved towards the rear marauders who were in contact with the hill a 2nd successful roll saw him make contact. Not sure if I tried to command another unit but none moved.
The shamans gathered together to cast Waagh! on the goblins fighting the mounted marauders, success on the 2nd cast. So not needing Snotgut’s shaman he was tasked to cast Gerroff elsewhere but rolled a 1 again.
Melee the goblins died, but did take a stand of mounted marauders with them.
The giant’s 12 attacks against the mounted marauders 1, and they fell back destroyed into the cliff, the giant charged against the Chaos Knights flank.
The troll were disadvantaged against the marauders they could only get one stand in contact, however they destroyed them at the loss of a stand and moved against the two stands of knights.
At this point Chaos had reached his break point and the game ended.

The final combat

The final disposition end Ork turn 3

Back at his tribal village Mork sat eating the celebratory meal, looking at Snotgut’s head and that of the shaman that now adorned the Ork’s totemic pillar.
Mork grinned, they were definitely inspiring more troops now than they had done before.


Two hours of game play.

Chaos Right Flank with the Chaos units at table edge having been blown back

and the left flank, I hadn't seen the harpies on the central hill so didn't photo them, but they can be seen in location on first picture.

Ork right flank, the infamous Snotgut.

the centre with disrupted Trolls and rock lobbers

The left flank

I think you can clearly see scattered over the board the pink dice of power that my opponents claim roll to command; I want a three I get a three.

TBH I think I play aggressively and chance all, my opponents may be cautious or my style might make them so, but some of the times I get the rolls and often don't. I wont deny I often roll the number needed when I chance, and opponents forget when I don't, but I'd like to think I have a plan rather than rely on luck.